From: Steven Budden (email suppressed)
Date: Sun Feb 19 2006 - 00:09:52 PST
Alain,
How do the people you know who use FG on their work prints splice their
films? Thanks for tackling these issues. That is exactly what I was wondering
about.
I plan to make prints while the option is available. When it isn't I'll
probably scan and project original.
I know the film is going to get beat up regardless, I'm just weighing my
options. I guess I'll have to get some FG and start messing with it.
Thanks!
Steven
In a message dated 2/18/2006 10:03:41 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
email suppressed writes:
I'm curious if you plan to project the original (shots cement or tape
spliced) or make prints for projection?
Filmguard is nice, works wonders, allows the projector to run quieter,
etc. but remember this stuff applies wet and stays that way which makes it
a little tricky to handle. It was made for release prints though I use it
(and know of others who apply it) on work prints. It seems to extend the
life of the print and cleans things up a little...not as much static
charge attract all that dust and dirt. This works for me as I'm not
handling the film all that much. My shots rarely run shorter than 30
seconds and I don't change the assembly order all that much.
Also, tape splices may not hold if you've first applied FG to the film
once its returned from the lab or hand-processing. I've had little problem
with this but I know several editors who have had trouble (I think because
they're cutting and handling the film more). As for cement splicing and FG
I don't know how this would work?
If what you're after is denaturing this image (film is film after all and
will reflect that it's been handled) then it shouldn't matter much what
you apply. FG can be applied and removed with film cleaner if you find it
doesn't work.
Lastly, a little FG goes a long way. If you overcoat you going to have to
run back over the film with a wipe to remove the excess. And if there's
too much FG it doesn't run well through the projector.
Alain LeTourneau
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