From: Doug Williams (email suppressed)
Date: Mon Feb 27 2006 - 08:30:14 PST
Thanks to the three of you who replied with suggestions. I think I will do a test on some 8mm film first using the broken up markers, and the acrylics, and maybe some glass paint to get an idea of the drying times and transparency and vibrancy. Still open to other suggestions. Thanks again.
-Doug
Jason Halprin <email suppressed> wrote:
In terms of a workstation almost any table or desk would do if you
track down a small light box. I believe you can get one at many art
stores for around $30 (here's a link to one:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz553/09/).
-Jason Halprin
Chicago
--- Pablo Marin
wrote:
> Doug,
>
> from what i read, you´re planing to paint in
> differents colours each of your 7000 frames (not tint
> whole sections with one colour).
>
> i´ve done some painting on 35mm and had really good
> results with permanent markers. (sharpies are not
> available here, i use Edding 400 and Staedler´s. ) the
> thing is that if you paint directly with your marker
> (the tip onto celluloid) you will not do it quickly
> and things will get messy. in my case, i removed that
> fiber part in which all the ink is store (i don´t know
> the english word for it) and then put it in a jar
> recipient with some liquid alcohol. after you shake it
> enough, you will have some liquid permanent ink. then
> you can apply it to film with any kind of brushes (you
> can get them as small and sharp as you like). alcohol
> based permanent ink dryes completely in about 10-15
> minutes.
>
> as for setting up a workstation you could check Norman
> Mclaren´s "How To Make Animated Movies Without a
> Camera," included in Russett-Starr´s "Experimental
> Animation: Origins of a New Art".
>
> good luck and all the best for your operation,
> Pablo Marin
> Buenos Aires.
>
>
>
> --- Doug Williams wrote:
>
> > Hello. This is my first post here. I'm writing
> > because I am planning to hand color film which I
> > have never tried before and I was hoping to get the
> > benefit of everyone's experience. I'll be as
> > detailed as possible:
> > I am planning to shoot 2 rolls of black and white
> > 35mm film. Then I will get a work print made and
> > take it home. Then I have to have some surgery and I
> > want to spend my recovery time hand coloring in the
> > parts of the work print which will appear in the
> > final film. Then I will get the colored work print
> > transferred to digital files so I can put it on my
> > computer to finish the editing. I have many
> > questions about the process. First of all does that
> > sound like a reasonable workflow? Does anybody have
> > good suggestions about the mechanics of setting up a
> > workstation to move efficiently through the coloring
> > process while allowing enough time for drying etc.?
> >
> > I want the color to be translucent so that the
> > images will be colored without losing any of the
> > detail of the film. Of course I want it to look as
> > good as it can but I also want to move quickly and
> > efficiently and hopefully without getting cancer
> > from toxins. I will have a lot of recovery time to
> > work with and I'm actually looking forward to it as
> > a sort of therapy but at the same time there will be
> > a LOT of frames to color so I do want to be able to
> > move fast so I can finish it in this lifetime. The
> > finished film I hope will be about 5 minutes long
> > which I believe means I will be coloring a little
> > over 7,000 individual frames of film. I'm up for it
> > as long as it takes but I want to make sure I have a
> > good plan first. I have heard of using food color,
> > water color, stained glass paints, and even
> > sharpies. The sharpies sound like a good option just
> > because it seems quick and non toxic and not too
> > messy. It also seems though that it would be
> > difficult to blend colors much with
> > sharpies or other felt tip pens so you would be
> > pretty much stuck with the colors you can buy. This
> > might be okay with me but it's good to have options.
> > Has anyone used sharpies for hand coloring film? Do
> > they actually work transparently and without
> > smearing? Is there a way to blend them if you want?
> > What is the drying time like? Any other similar but
> > better options for moving fast and getting good
> > results? I have found a little informationin the
> > archives but I really want to hear more about
> > specific techniques and mediums people have tried.
> > Any tips or comments would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thank you very much!
> > -Doug
> >
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> > For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at
> >
.
> >
> >
>
>
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__________________________________________________________________
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__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.