From: owen (email suppressed)
Date: Sat Oct 13 2007 - 14:27:18 PDT
I still use my fingers. it experimental. and cheaper. keeps you on
your toes.
owen
On Oct 13, 2007, at 4:34 PM, Andy Ditzler wrote:
> The problem with the rubber strip on the Eiki focus knob assembly
> is common; over the last year I've seen it on three different
> projectors which I use. For the time being, replacements for the
> focus knob assemblies can be easily ordered from KMR Electronics,
> 2413 S. Broadway, Santa Ana, CA 92707-3251. Phone: (714) 979-0400.
> As I understand, KMR purchased all the remaining Eiki parts. http://
> www.kmr.com/ The focus knob assemblies run about $25 each, with
> shipping. When I last ordered from them, their minimum purchase
> amount for credit card was $40. If ordering less than that, you can
> write a check.
>
> You'll need to determine the part number, which varies depending on
> whether you have an SSL, SSL-O, or other model.
>
> What you replace on the projector is the entire focus knob (which
> comes with the rubber strip already on it). It's quite easy to
> replace this part and only requires the correct size screwdrivers.
> Still, once these parts are no longer available, David's solution
> will be especially valuable - thanks for posting it, David.
>
> I had to go through a screening focusing the lens by hand and don't
> recommend it. For one thing, the rubber helps hold the lens in
> place, so once the rubber goes out, the lens has too much play and
> can go out of focus easily.
>
> Andy Ditzler
> Atlanta, GA
> www.frequentsmallmeals.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "owen" <email suppressed>
> To: <email suppressed>
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 3:53 PM
> Subject: Re: Eiki projector tip
>
>
>> or just use your fingers to turn the lens to focus.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 13, 2007, at 2:08 PM, David Tetzlaff wrote:
>>
>>> Eiki 'Slim Line' 16mm projectors (and perhaps other models as well)
>>> adjust
>>> focus by means of a knob with a rubber collar on the end of its
>>> shaft that
>>> engages ribs on the lens barrel.
>>>
>>> The problem with this is over time, the rubber perishes and ceases
>>> to grab
>>> the ribs. In some cases is gets brittle and cracks. More often it
>>> seems to
>>> liquify and turn into a sort of goo. This is dangerous. I am now
>>> convinced
>>> that just such a piece of goo migrated from the lens into the
>>> gate and
>>> destroyed a valuable print I projected a couple years ago.
>>>
>>> I have come up with a method to repair this problem, which takes no
>>> special skill, so i thought I'd share.
>>>
>>> 1. Remove the plastic cover over the lens housing, It just pulls
>>> off from
>>> the top.
>>>
>>> 2. Remove the lens housing: three small Phillips head screws, one
>>> on top
>>> two on bottom.
>>>
>>> 3. Remove the small screw in the rear slot holding the lens in the
>>> housing
>>> and remove the lens.
>>>
>>> 4. On the bottom of the lens housing is a metal bracket attached by
>>> two
>>> very small Phillips head screws. Back these screws out, but do not
>>> totally
>>> remove them. The focus knob will now slide out of the housing.
>>>
>>> 5. Remove whats left of the old collar and clean up any residue
>>> on the
>>> knob, inside the housing, or on the lens barrel.
>>>
>>> 6. Obtain some large heat shrink tubing for 14/16 gauge wire and
>>> 10/12
>>> gauge wire. I used a package from harbor Freight Tools, catalog
>>> 96024-1VGA, www.harborfreight.com if they don't have a store in
>>> your area.
>>>
>>> 7. Cut two pieces of the smaller tubing to the length of the
>>> collar, and
>>> also two pieces of the larger tubing.
>>>
>>> 8. Slide a pice of the smaller tubing (red if its Harbor Freight)
>>> onto the
>>> end of the focus shaft as far as it will go. Heat it with a kitchen
>>> match
>>> or range burner from an inch or so away until it shrinks tight onto
>>> the
>>> shaft.
>>>
>>> 9. Let it cool, then add another layer of the same size tubing
>>> (red). It
>>> should fit over the first layer after that one has shrunk. Again,
>>> heat to
>>> shrink.
>>>
>>> 10. Add two more layers using the larger (black from Harbor Freight)
>>> tubing, again shrinking with heat.
>>>
>>> 11. This should build out your new plastic collar to just about the
>>> diameter of the wider part of the shaft
>>>
>>> 12. Reinsert the shaft into the lens housing. Line up the slots
>>> in the
>>> shaft with the two small Phillips screws you losened earlier.
>>> Tighten
>>> these screws, making sure they go into the slots and do not bind the
>>> shaft. The shaft should rotate freely when you turn the knob.
>>>
>>> 13. put the lens back in the housing. Hopefully your new collar will
>>> engage the ribs and rotating the knob will move the lens back and
>>> forth.
>>>
>>> 14. Reassemble the lens housing in reverse of the disassembly above.
>>>
>>> Hope this helps somebody somewhere keep a projector in service.
>>>
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________________________
>>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.