From: Klaus W. Eisenlohr (email suppressed)
Date: Wed Jan 16 2008 - 16:58:06 PST
Dear Rita
I did that with a work of mine some time ago, it was quite successful:
I bought a decent Flatscreen 21'', it was a Benq,
I was looking for very good contrast numbers.
and I rented a Arriflex 16 SR as I needed a
crystal sync camera, I had sync sound.
With the flatscreen I went to the setting for
daylight, so it looks slightly blueish and bought
daylight negative film. Also with the flat
screen, or powerbook, you do not have problems
with shooting 24 frames or any other speed, as
you have with TV or normal computer monitors.
The biggest problem was dithering stripes.
Quicktime is very bad with creating artefacts you
don't want to see. The only way to get rid of
them was to compress the movie to DVD and run it
in DVD player. The downside to that is that you
loose a lot of contrast and color information,
and I had to tweak color saturation and contrast
in ways it would look okay as DVD. (I remember it
getting much darker in the darks, white outwashed
in too bright areas and still too low contrast)
After going back and forth a few time I got a
decent result and it looked very good. The
quality was somewhat similar to a Super-8 Blowup
(a professional one) and the only problems I had,
was that some of the dark grays turned green.
Otherwise it was quite color acurate and decent
looking.
It also dimished the overly "cold and real"
looking video quality, so that the mix between
original 16mm and video footage looked much
better.
As with metering light, I took the experience
from former test in photography, take the pure
white as +2 fstops but that usually is not
enough, so mostly you need to open about 3 fstops
from metering the white point. But its better to
run a test.
And as with any flat reproduction you need to be
100% acurate with lining camera in rectangle to
the screen, and it is better to use a slight tele
lense (as for portraits), both for the equal
light diffusion from the monitor and to avoid
lense distortion.
Good luck!
Klaus
>Transferring to 16mm would be a lot cheaper at DuArt in NYC, especially
>considering the student discount and bottom dwelling dollar (the GBP goes a
>LONG way in the US)--although there would be shipping to consider. Of course
>this isn't as cheap as DIY.... Caroline
>
>
>
>On 1/13/08 8:17 AM, "Rita Nazareno" <email suppressed> wrote:
>
>> Hello!
>>
>> What's the best way to transfer video (on a DVD) to 16mm? I have a
>> friend, a student, who'd like to do this with her 6 minute project
>> without having to pay GBP125 a minute.
>>
>> She has a 16mm Bolex and a MAC laptop at her disposal.
>>
>> One thought was going frame by frame, shooting a MAC laptop screen
>> (camera locked).
>>
>> Any other thoughts?
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> RITA
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________
>For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
-- Klaus W. Eisenlohr, Osnabrücker Str. 25, D-10589 Berlin, Germany email: email suppressed homepage: http://www.kw-eisenlohr.de and film production: http://www.richfilm.de phone: int.- 49 - 30 - 3409 5343 (BERLIN) __________________________________________________________________ For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.