From: miriam jayne martins sampaio (email suppressed)
Date: Mon Feb 23 2009 - 15:54:48 PST
Hello JimThanks for the information. As stated in an earlier email I thought it was a 16mm camera NOT a super 8. I already own 2. As for the price, indeed it may not be a lot of money for some but for me it is, plus shipping. In comparison to other prices it is pretty good. Regardless as some have stated it is probably the camera that I need to be experimenting with, a sign of shorts and I will take it when it arrives in the mail. I am glad to know that I can handprocess regular 8 in a G3 tank that only takes 16mm and 35mm.Again to everyone who wrote me back! I feel much better!!!
Miriam
> Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:30:04 -0800
> From: email suppressed
> Subject: Re: HELP
> To: email suppressed
>
> Monday, February 23, 2009, 1:27:24 PM, one spoke:
>
> m> if it does take 16mm film than that morse tank i put a bid on will be
> m> great to have. if not? well i am kinda of screwed since i do not own
> m> a 16mm camera just a super 8.
>
> As has been said several times:
>
> 1) Under NO circumstances will you have a SUPER 8 camera. This is a
> DOUBLE 8 camera (it's right in the model number, "2x8").
>
> 2) It will not take 16mm film. It requires DOUBLE 8mm film specifically
> labeled as such. Previous emails have provided mail order sources in the
> US and in Europe.
>
> 3) You can use double 8mm film in 16mm equipment. You cannot use 16mm
> film in double 8mm equipment.
>
> 4) THEREFORE if you shoot double 8mm film in your double 8mm camera you
> can process it in your 16mm tank, project it in your 16mm projector,
> edit it on your 16mm flatbed, etc. But you MUST use double 8 film to
> begin with because you CANNOT run 16mm film in a double 8 camera.
>
> 5) If you process the double 8mm film in your own tank, or send it to a
> 16mm lab and do NOT have it "split" your 16mm frame will have the 2x2
> grid described in earlier emails. You can intercut this original with
> normal 16mm film, or finish a film entirely in this format; from the
> point it leaves the camera, you *may* treat the film as 16mm.
>
> 6) To work with double 8mm film *AS 8mm* you must "split" the original
> after processing, either by sending it to a lab that provides the
> service (again, see previous emails for addresses) or shopping around
> for a salvaged machine. "Splitting" involves running a razor blade (a
> *finely calibrated* razor blade) down the middle of the 16mm filmstrip,
> resulting in two 8mm filmstrips. (From this point on you can NOT use the
> film in 16mm equipment, so you'ld obviously need to come up with
> appropriate viewer, splicer, etc.)
>
> So if you're working in 16mm generally, this is a camera that you can
> use for certain special purposes (i.e. making a 2x2 grid of images). But
> you know, $55 isn't a lot of money to spend on a special-purpose camera,
> even if you only use it for a few dozen shots over its lifetime ;-) ...
>
> --
> Jim Flannery
> email suppressed
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
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__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.