From: Roger Beebe (email suppressed)
Date: Wed Feb 24 2010 - 09:06:08 PST
I'm confused about this. Since there's no shutter, wouldn't this just produce a long blur across each frame? Is there something magical in the super 8 cartridge that I don't understand? (In my head I always assumed the movement was determined by the pull down claw in the camera [with a Maltese cross or some such], but does the cartridge itself do more than just advance the film steadily?)
Anyone?
Roger
On Feb 23, 2010, at 10:48 PM, j.l. chouinard wrote:
>
> > i have heard of using super 8 by taking a cartridge, placing the pinhole over the film and turning it with a melted pin cap. never did it through. Has anyone on frameworks?
> >
>
> the following info was brought to my attention by lindsey lodhie.
>
>
> _____________________
> Basic Pinhole Instructions: (please supplement with your own research)
>
> Crank should be on the left side w/ the film label on the right. Turn crank clockwise to advance. Each cartridge has 50ft and should release tension when finished.
> 1 full revolution (one turn of the crank)= 46 frames (approximately)
> If you were to advance the film at 1 revolution per second, your shutter speed would be 1/46 of a second and projected at 18fps (standard super 8 speed) your footage would appear to be 2.5 times slower than normal speed.
> If you wish to crank at "normal" speed you should advance at approximately 1/2 revolution per second.
> Remember that there's no shutter to either mask the motion of the film (producing motion blur) or block out part of the exposure time.
> Your fps will give you an effective shutter speed of 1/(fps)- for example 50fps will give you a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second.
> Using an analogue light meter, you should set your dial according to your footcandles as usual, but reference your f-stop first in order to determine your shutter. This is the opposite of how you normally use a light meter. Referencing the washer-fstop guide below, find your fixed aperture and the corresponding shutterspeed. If, for example, your shutter speed says 1/125 of a second, you'll know to crank at a rate of 125 frames per second (about 3 revolutions per second).
> The easiest subjects to expose will probably be those with extremes of exposure (like a sunlit window in a dark room) because chances are, you'll expose some part of the image semi correctly.
> Keep in mind that nothing in pinhole filmmaking is exact and you should use this information to give you a good sense of your basic shooting parameters.
> (Also, if you're interested, you can try making pinhole lenses for the bolex using a similar method.)
>
> Aperture Guide:
> 1 washer= f/3.33
>
> 2 washers= f/7.9
> 3 washers= f/10.59
> 4 washers= f/15.9
> 5 washers= f/21.1
> 6 washers= f/26.5
>
> Article from "AfterImage" about pinhole filmmaking:
> http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2479/is_4_28/ai_76560785
>
> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. Get it now.
> __________________________________________________________________ For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.