From: Freya (email suppressed)
Date: Sat Jun 10 2006 - 06:43:28 PDT
I'm afraid it's actually standard 8mm camera original.
I'm thinking of making something with found footage.
The reinforced print splicing tip sounds great tho,
and I will remember that for later! ;)
love
Freya
--- Sam Wells <email suppressed> wrote:
> Are you talking about splicing a print ?
>
> The safest print splice is cement reinforced with
> tape (cut to the
> frame line) on the *base* side.
>
> The Bolex splicer is actually better for this than
> Maier-Hancock
> (just be carefull as the Bolex seems designed to
> dump scraped
> emulsion back on the film ;-0) as it's thinner
> (beveled)
>
> I suppose a Hammann would be better yet.
>
> If it's Estar, forget cement, (see recent ultrasonic
> thread)
>
> -Sam
>
>
>
>
> > I need to splice some film for a film screening
> type
> > thing, and I've never done this before so I've
> started
> > to look into it and it's a very scary buisness.
> >
> > Probably I will have to use tape splices. What
> worries
> > me a little is that if I want to replcace the tape
> > splices with cement ones at a later date, then I
> will
> > lose a couple of frames or something. Now normally
> > this wouldn't be such a big deal, but of course
> this
> > being experimental film and all, well, it is.
> > Especially for the film I was planning on editing.
> >
> > My other option would be to cement my splices from
> the
> > beginning. Obviously this is altogether more scary
> but
> > on top of that there isn't bags of time and the
> only
> > film cement I have probably dates to the 70's and
> > 80's, so I imagine had probably gone bad by now.
> >
> > The more I read about it the more it seems that
> people
> > say "tape splaces, oooooh, very, very bad,
> adhesive
> > eating into film, decay, not archival..."
> >
> > I suppose I shouldn't worry really, it's all going
> to
> > rot away in time anyway, right!?? ;)
> >
> > love
> >
> > Freya
> >
> >
> >
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> >
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at
> <email suppressed>.
>
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