From: JEFFREY PAULL (email suppressed)
Date: Sat Dec 27 2008 - 19:27:11 PST
For tinting movie film, also try Dr. Martin's Tranparent watercolors (100% dye, no pigment particles).
There is also a Luma brand. Both tend to be very light fast.
Available at big art stores.
These dye watercolour paints have great intensity and a large range of colours.
Watercolours in tubes may also have pigments - finely ground pieces of colour - that
don't soak into the film, and so, don't tint very strongly.
Note:
If you are drawing on film, use permenant markers to mark on the base (shiny) side of the film,
and use non-permenant (meaning water based ink) markers on the emulsion side.
The emulsion gelatin absorbs water, and the dye along with it.
But the emulsion won't absorb the solvent-based permenant marker dye, so colour is weak.
Whatever you do use on the film - paint, inks, gold stars,
mind that stuff won't scrape off into the hot gate going through the projector,
or unknowingly wreck the super-clean equipment at the lab.
Anything transferring from film to metal in the hot projector gate tends to get baked on.
Oy vay!
Jeffrey Paull
On Wed 24/12/08 10:20 , Jeanne LIOTTA email suppressed sent:
> well yeah except color film is *not* archival anyway, for whatever that's
> all worth in terms of the immortality market etc.
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> re making copies: I for one am never excited by playing it safe in the
> studio even if I ruin lots of stuff that way. I did little tests with some
> frames of outtake material, and it was fine. the B&w reversal was so porous
> and took the dye so well, and its not poisonous at all (having once almost
> killed myself using toxic toners in a tiny darkroom). When I sent my
> orignal hand dyed film to the lab for interneg dupe I attached the gel I
> was using in the steenbeck and said make it this color, which they did. It
> looks great but I think my black and white dyed original will last 'way
> longer' than those color prints.
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> www.jeanneliotta.net
> www.youtube.c
> om/zerojeanli
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> __________________________________________________________________
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> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at (address suppressed)
> om>.
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__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.