Re: tinting

From: marco poloni (email suppressed)
Date: Sun Dec 28 2008 - 05:07:34 PST


Hello Jeffrey,
Thanks a lot for your excellent advise. It adds to some very good advise I received from other frameworks members. Your point about avoiding material build up and/or mess at the gate of projecting and editing equipment is well taken! Also, and interestingly, I am getting consistent feedback about how water-absorbent the emulsion side of film is.
So I am off to months of experimentation during the cold winter months..
Thanks again! Best,
Marco

-----Original Message-----
>From: JEFFREY PAULL <email suppressed>
>Sent: Dec 28, 2008 4:27 AM
>To: email suppressed
>Subject: Re: tinting
>
>For tinting movie film, also try Dr. Martin's Tranparent watercolors (100% dye, no pigment particles).
>There is also a Luma brand. Both tend to be very light fast.
>Available at big art stores.
>These dye watercolour paints have great intensity and a large range of colours.
>
>Watercolours in tubes may also have pigments - finely ground pieces of colour - that
>don't soak into the film, and so, don't tint very strongly.
>
>Note:
>If you are drawing on film, use permenant markers to mark on the base (shiny) side of the film,
>and use non-permenant (meaning water based ink) markers on the emulsion side.
>The emulsion gelatin absorbs water, and the dye along with it.
>But the emulsion won't absorb the solvent-based permenant marker dye, so colour is weak.
>
>Whatever you do use on the film - paint, inks, gold stars,
>mind that stuff won't scrape off into the hot gate going through the projector,
>or unknowingly wreck the super-clean equipment at the lab.
>Anything transferring from film to metal in the hot projector gate tends to get baked on.
>Oy vay!
>
>
>Jeffrey Paull
>
>
>
>On Wed 24/12/08 10:20 , Jeanne LIOTTA email suppressed sent:
>> well yeah except color film is *not* archival anyway, for whatever that's
>> all worth in terms of the immortality market etc.
>>
>>
>> re making copies: I for one am never excited by playing it safe in the
>> studio even if I ruin lots of stuff that way. I did little tests with some
>> frames of outtake material, and it was fine. the B&w reversal was so porous
>> and took the dye so well, and its not poisonous at all (having once almost
>> killed myself using toxic toners in a tiny darkroom). When I sent my
>> orignal hand dyed film to the lab for interneg dupe I attached the gel I
>> was using in the steenbeck and said make it this color, which they did. It
>> looks great but I think my black and white dyed original will last 'way
>> longer' than those color prints.
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>> www.jeanneliotta.net
>> www.youtube.c
>> om/zerojeanli
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>> __________________________________________________________________
>>
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at (address suppressed)
>> om>.
>>
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>__________________________________________________________________
>For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.

------------------------------------------------
Marco Poloni, Korsörer Strasse 1, D-10437 Berlin
gsm +41.78.6322028, skype marcopoloni

__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.