From: Dinorah de Jesús Rodriguez (email suppressed)
Date: Tue Mar 03 2009 - 20:06:06 PST
wow! thanks for all that info on extending the loops - coat hangers
are a great idea, i had never tried that.
your tips on the film leader are also of huge importance. big
frustration to find out you're trying to scratch on black plastic and
not film emulsion! and definitely agree with the use of permanent
markers.
i also work with jacquard silk dyes using 00 watercolor brushes. it
dries instantly and is permanent, but it's always best to let it sit
on the lightbox for a few hours before winding. this in lieu of the
Dr. Martin inks that are tempting but not permanent and slower to
dry. Photospot pens work well, but the colors are very subtle.
actually looks better on photographic image than on scratched black
leader.
enjoy today...
Dinorah de Jesús Rodríguez
Film/Video Artist and Freelance Writer
www.solislandmediaworks.com
www.artcinematic.blogspot.com
http://cinesthesia.blip.tv
On Mar 3, 2009, at 10:43 PM, JEFFREY PAULL wrote:
> I forgot to mention -
> Loops can be virtually as long as you like, if you provide both the
> room and guiding spools to allow a really big loop to move freely.
> The "spools" can be just about anything that allows the film to
> slip past, and prevents the film from sliding off and falling.
> Coat hangers, tho way wider than 16mm film, are OK, and, if you
> like, you can be playful both inventing carrying "spools" to keep
> the loop loose and open,
> and how you might arrange the travel path of the loop as part of an
> installation.
>
> - Any short loop should still be long enough that you thread it
> through the upper and lower sprocket wheels.
> - Don't make a loop so short the pull-down claw is the only
> thing moving the loop. It's tough on the sprocket holes to take all
> the strain of that start-stop-start moment of the claw.
> - Short loops make more cycles per minute than do longer loops,
> so will scratch, dust up, etc. faster.
> - Long loops expose much surface to the air in the room, and,
> so, to dust in the room. Plan ahead.
> - Expect the scratches and hair-in-the-gate to reveal
> themselves. That's why video on hard drive or flash drive is so
> good: no dust, always in focus, abolutely steady on the screen, no
> deterioration.
> - As dirt particles accumulate in the gate over time, they may
> sit there and scratch the film surface as it continues to move
> through the gate. Fact of life.
> - Projectors can drift out of focus as they continue to run and
> heat up the gate.
> - Ask as the lab if there are still, in 2009, coatings that
> toughen the film and reduce the appearances of scratchs, etc.
>
> JP
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue 03/03/09 21:28 , redmond entwistle email suppressed sent:
>> Hi frameworkers,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm looking to borrow a 1000ft split reel from someone in the 5
>> boroughs
>>
>> of NY for a few days this week. Or buy one if anyone has one up for
>>
>> sale. Please contact me off-list if you've got any suggestions.
>>
>>
>>
>> I've also got an experimental film 101 question from a non-
>> frameworker,
>>
>> who would like to scratch into black leader and project it as a loop.
>>
>> Does anyone have tips for getting some black leader in NY? And the
>> ideal
>>
>> length for a continuous film loop and how loose or taught it
>> should be?
>>
>>
>>
>> many thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Redmond
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________
>>
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at (address suppressed)
>> om>.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.